Tulu Showroom Launches
June 13, 2008
ISTANBUL, Turkey – Elizabeth Hewitt, antique textile dealer and original pioneer of the Central Asian Ikat resurgence, opened her first showroom late May of 2008. The showroom features her original designs as well as original textile documents under her textile design company, Tulu. In an interview Hewitt discussed how buyer demands for authentic pieces have shaped her career and more recently created a favorable market for her new company.
Having worked in the industry as a specialized dealer in Central Asian textiles for over fifteen years, Hewitt has witnessed increasing demand for handmade crafted pieces. "There is a big demand for traditionally made fabrics," she said. "People are hungry for unique fabrics and they know the difference between handmade and machine made."
"We've basically seen everything under the sun and this is a big problem for designers looking for new designs," Hewitt said.
Hewitt became the first producer of Central Asian Ikat five years ago when she discovered that select skilled craftsmen in Uzbekistan were still practicing the 19th century craft. "All of the books written about Central Asian textiles, which there are plenty, said that the craft had died out, and it basically had," said Hewitt. "When I realized that there were a few people who could make this Uzbek Ikat who were selling them as fraud antiques, I realized that it was something I needed to follow."
She employed these craftsmen and began producing modern Ikat using traditional weaving processes. Her first large specification for Ikat was by Oscar de la Renta, who continues to buy a different Ikat design every season. "All the major fashion houses carry at least one faux, printed or woven Ikat in their line – it's really big now," she said. Hewitt has filled orders for big fashion as well as interior designers. Her client roster includes names such as Michael Smith and Robert Kime, the official designer to the Royal Family.
"The defining thing about Uzbek Ikat is the silk warping," said Hewitt. "It's very dense, so you get a bold design and bold colors. It also ends up being about 70 percent silk because the warp is so heavy. The manufacturing people in Uzbekistan are individuals who are bringing back craft to the industry."
"The Turkish textile industry is suffering because there are countries who are willing to produce volumes of material for very low costs," she continued. "Turkey has to do what Italy did – that is to go extremely high-end in quality and also design. We're not quite there yet. We have the fibers but we especially need to focus on our design."
Creating high-end products not only benefits the customer with quality material but also allows for humanistic working conditions, indicated Hewitt. "I want to try to make something of substance," she said. "From the beginning to the end I'm not participating in the oppression of individuals. If anything I hope my activity in the industry is helping people live quality lives."
Tulu, a relatively new company, features high-end upholstery fabrics and products specified for home furnishings showrooms. Hewitt has indicated that Tulu will exist independently of Karavan, her company that deals antique fabrics, produces carpet designs and produces Ikat. "I'm not going to sell Ikat under Tulu. I am loyal to my existing customers who already purchase the Ikat," she said. Tulu will feature her 16th and 18th century Turkish-inspired prints, Russian-inspired prints and more.
Having worked in the industry as a specialized dealer in Central Asian textiles for over fifteen years, Hewitt has witnessed increasing demand for handmade crafted pieces. "There is a big demand for traditionally made fabrics," she said. "People are hungry for unique fabrics and they know the difference between handmade and machine made."
"We've basically seen everything under the sun and this is a big problem for designers looking for new designs," Hewitt said.
Hewitt became the first producer of Central Asian Ikat five years ago when she discovered that select skilled craftsmen in Uzbekistan were still practicing the 19th century craft. "All of the books written about Central Asian textiles, which there are plenty, said that the craft had died out, and it basically had," said Hewitt. "When I realized that there were a few people who could make this Uzbek Ikat who were selling them as fraud antiques, I realized that it was something I needed to follow."
She employed these craftsmen and began producing modern Ikat using traditional weaving processes. Her first large specification for Ikat was by Oscar de la Renta, who continues to buy a different Ikat design every season. "All the major fashion houses carry at least one faux, printed or woven Ikat in their line – it's really big now," she said. Hewitt has filled orders for big fashion as well as interior designers. Her client roster includes names such as Michael Smith and Robert Kime, the official designer to the Royal Family.
"The defining thing about Uzbek Ikat is the silk warping," said Hewitt. "It's very dense, so you get a bold design and bold colors. It also ends up being about 70 percent silk because the warp is so heavy. The manufacturing people in Uzbekistan are individuals who are bringing back craft to the industry."
"The Turkish textile industry is suffering because there are countries who are willing to produce volumes of material for very low costs," she continued. "Turkey has to do what Italy did – that is to go extremely high-end in quality and also design. We're not quite there yet. We have the fibers but we especially need to focus on our design."
Creating high-end products not only benefits the customer with quality material but also allows for humanistic working conditions, indicated Hewitt. "I want to try to make something of substance," she said. "From the beginning to the end I'm not participating in the oppression of individuals. If anything I hope my activity in the industry is helping people live quality lives."
Tulu, a relatively new company, features high-end upholstery fabrics and products specified for home furnishings showrooms. Hewitt has indicated that Tulu will exist independently of Karavan, her company that deals antique fabrics, produces carpet designs and produces Ikat. "I'm not going to sell Ikat under Tulu. I am loyal to my existing customers who already purchase the Ikat," she said. Tulu will feature her 16th and 18th century Turkish-inspired prints, Russian-inspired prints and more.
