Belfast, Northern Ireland – Steeped in tradition, the Irish linen industry is fast catching on to trends. Linen was once a fad and lately it's been considered a classic, but now demand for it is on the rise in the furnishings business, especially in the home. This is equally true of the contract market, where linen is being promoted as an up-to-date, cutting-edge, contemporary product.

Although the Northern Ireland-based trade has contracted over recent decades, the remaining firms are investing in design, product development, marketing and new technology, and looking to increase export business, particularly in America. In the process, they are following the much-talked-about trend of returning to natural fibers in interiors.

According to the Irish Linen Guild (Heimtextil, Hall 3.0, Stand A07), Irish linen is recognized as the finest. With production of around 2,000 tons of fabric a year, Northern Ireland manufactures some 20 percent of the linen woven in the European Union.

Accounting for about 75 percent of output, fashionable apparel fabrics are a relatively recent phenomenon for the trade that's traditionally been based on household textiles. Now, some companies are diversifying into furnishing fabrics for the contract and retail sectors.

To reestablish itself in the contract business, one of the enduring names in Irish linen, Moygashel of County Tyrone, is focusing once more on the contract industry. In the coming year, Moygashel will launch four collections. The company hopes to find clients in the cruise and hotel industries, said Helen Poulter, Moygashel Managing Director.

''Linen crosses all avenues in the contract sector — and contract is leading the whole interiors market. It is a classic fabric, with a unique handle and durability. And linen furnishing fabrics can be both traditional and contemporary.'' (For more on Moygashel, check F&FI's Contract News.)

Until recently, Moy-gashel's soft furnishings business focused on retail. Sales were geared to major retail chains and independent stores in the U.K., with some exports to U.S. wholesalers.

Linen continues to play a major role in the furnishing collections created by John England Textiles (Heimtextil, Hall 9.1, Stand F32). At its new palatial headquarters overlooking the port of Belfast, the company's management team remains enthusiastic about its latest furnishing fabrics book, ''Home by John England,'' launched at Heimtextil '99.

Inspired by 1950s Scan-dinavia, every fabric in the collection has a linen content. At Heimtextil the company will add six colors to the range, in weights from fine gauze to heavy curtain and upholstery fabrics in 100 percent linen and linen/cotton blends. The collection also features hand-woven throws as well as stretch fabrics, washed linens and best-selling lightweight voiles.

''The new colors will give a little more warmth to the range,'' explained Design and Sales Coordinator Lorraine Taylor. ''We will also introduce some embroidery effects and decorative stitching.''

The company also said that it is working on an ''Airo'' finish — a fabric treatment obtained with an Italian finishing machine that produces a soft handle. ''When people find us at Heimtextil, they will certainly remember us. We keep hitting customers with new ideas. In fact, we have to restrict what we do for the furnishings side of the business, as these fabrics tend to last for a number of years,'' said Managing Director John England.

With a definite European look, business from the collection has begun in most major Continental markets, although it has not yet sold in America. ''We just need time to conquer the U.S. market,'' England said.

While linen is adding finesse to all aspects of modern interior design, household textiles have for centuries been the mainstays of the Irish linen industry. In the bedroom, luxurious linen sheets, pillowcases and duvet covers remain the choice of royalty and the well heeled, and in the dining room, damask table-linen is still demanded by the top hotels and restaurants worldwide.

Linen also adds luxury to the bathroom in the form of hand towels in a special huckaback weave or as a coarse looped friction towel, which dries the skin and stimulates the blood supply. In the kitchen, highly absorbent linen tea-towels are now available in a vast range of designs and colors. And of course, pure linen handkerchiefs with elegant hem-stitching are a style classic for men and women.

Based in Banbridge, Fer-gusons Irish Linens (Heim-textil, Hall 3.0, Stand B10) has found its niche at the top end of the household products market. The company's core business is the weaving of high quality damask table-linen (tablecloths, placemats and napkins), in both classic and modern designs, with sales mainly to upmarket retailers and hotel chains in the U.K., Ireland and overseas.

The product range has been extended to the bed and bathroom areas with bed-linen, pajamas and bathrobes, guest towels, and laundry and shoe bags, according to Sales Executive Johnny Breen.

''Plain weave damask products have been some of the biggest growing products over the past two years. Colors such as black and metal gray are now becoming very popular, particularly in bedlinen. These shades will be introduced at Heimtextil, together with some interesting 'vegetable' and 'sorbet' colors. We are also doing trial weaves using dyed wefts.''

Table and bed-linen manufacturer Ewart Liddell (Heimtextil, Hall 3.0, Stand A09) of Donaghcloney, also aims for the five-star luxury hotel market, where its be-spoke products account for about 60 percent of the company's turnover.

In the aviation sector, Ewart Liddell linen is increasingly used in first-class cabins of some of the world's leading airlines, where ''environmental'' designs using a natural, ecru look are beginning to make a presence.

Like several Irish linen companies, Ewart Liddell, part of the CV Home Furnishings Division, hopes for growth in North America. ''We are in the process of strengthening our representation there to develop this market,'' said Director of International Sales, Mark-eting Jimmy McCullough.

Having previously worked through a distributor, Ulster Weavers Home Fashions (Heimtextil, Hall 4.0, Stand D79) of Belfast has decided to go it alone in the U.S. market. With investment in technology and design, and a marketing strategy based on lifestyle segmentation, the company, a leading producer of Irish linen tea-towels based on innovative designs, also plans to increase turnover through organic growth by one-third to $15.6 million by 2003.

Although currently specializing in kitchen textile coordinates and accessories, Ulster Weavers hopes to expand into the dining room and bedroom, said Marketing Manager Liz Burke. Heim-textil will see the launch of a new collection based on the company's Irish heritage and contemporary imagery.

With a Royal Warrant to supply the British Royal Family with the finest linen, McCaw Allan (Heimtextil, Hall 3.0, Stand A11) of Lurgan also sees potential in the U.S., a market used to inexpensive Far Eastern products. ''Ours is not a cheap product, so there will need to be some education of the consumer'' said Managing Director Stanley Hadden.

As well as top quality boxed table-linen and linen sheets and pillowcases, the company now has a wide range of printed products such as tea-towels and coordinated kitchen accessories, as well as handkerchiefs.

''Linen is still a good business, but it is a changing market. Perhaps we need to reinvent the fabric for a younger market and give it a more contemporary treatment,'' Hadden said. ''It is said that old money buys linen sheets - and new money buys black satin! Linen will have to cut across tradition to extend its use and ensure its survival.''

Also shifting heavily towards kitchen and bathroom coordinates is the Ballymena-based Samuel Lamont Group (Heimtextil, Hall 3.0, Stand B08). With several recent acquisitions, the company is getting to grips with the expanding number of products in its portfolio and is fighting back with improved designs.

The group which turns over $8.2 million comprises: Samuel Lamont & Sons, producing printed tea-towels and coordinates, terry towels, pure linens, damask table-cloths and contract fabrics; Riverside Textiles, in-house and commission printers based in Armagh; and Givan's Irish Linen Stores, suppliers of high-class linens through retail and mail order channels from premises in the Kings Road, London. Quilting, stitching and making-up is carried out at the recently acquired Causeway Textiles factory in Lurgan.

''The Irish linen industry is consolidating into stronger groups,'' noted Commercial Director Peter Graham. ''However, niche markets will remain for a few smaller companies.''

Loch Ruray House of Dundrum and Tessellato Textiles of Strangford, County Down, are also exhibiting at Heimtextil at the Irish Linen Guild's stand (Heimtextil, Hall 3.0, Stand A07).