Brussels— Innovation in color, design and texture were the hallmarks of the U.K. exhibitors at Decosit '99. The emphasis was on simple yet dramatic designs as British firms displayed their diversity, focusing on traditional themes but in contemporary styles. The British contingent at Decosit continued to expand. There were 40 U.K. exhibitors at this year's event, 22 of which were showing as part of a group sponsored by the British Wool Textile Export Corporation. According to BWTEC Deputy Director Ann Thomson-Krol, ''product and presentation have become increasingly sophisticated and competitive.'' There was some suggestion that updated florals and prints were beginning to make a comeback in the upholstery market. Woven fabrics such as velvets and jacquards still dominated, while out-of-vogue prints were used mainly as accents, particularly for curtains. While not yet a mega-revival, Decosit revealed more inquiry for classic designs. More floral imagery prevailed than at past shows, and there were fewer contemporary and abstract designs around. In the U.K. upholstery market, texture was everything. Natural fabrics were taking center stage with linen in particular becoming trendy. Despite the good British turnout at Decosit, and their optimism about their products, the British market is struggling. The domestic industry is under pressure, especially from cheap imports from East European companies, who are reportedly selling jacquard fabrics for as little as £1 a meter. ''How can we compete?'' asked one exhibitor, who noted that some prestigious U.K. companies had begun to outsource fabrics from overseas. But all is not doom and gloom. Panaz of Burnley, Lancashire, used Decosit to push into the upholstery sector. The company launched new collections of flame-retardant contract fabrics, principally the Freespace Collection, a sophisticated range of Trevira CS woven fabrics for upholstery, drapes and accessories in the hotel and maritime leisure market. With a new business in America, Panaz recorded a ''very good 1998,'' said Sales Director Mike Beal. ''Although we experienced a slow start this year, the second half opened quite promisingly. We are excited about the domestic retail market. The contract export business is quite buoyant, particularly the maritime market into which we have begun to make inroads.'' Crowson reported great success with its new ranges, using traditional styles with modern fabrics and coordinated accessories. Product Manager Louise Spink commented that the market had become somewhat static, a condition which has left the door open for companies prepared to offer something a little different. For example, Crowson's Mackintosh collection, inspired by the works of architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh, featured bright, fresh colors. Roman Empire used designs on a range of printed cotton fabrics. Also new were a traditional Toile de Joie in cotton prints and jacquards; Savile Row, a cotton/polyester brushed color-woven jacquard in geometric designs; and the DC Designer Collection of cushions, throws and accessories. Arthur Sanderson & Sons of Uxbridge, Middlesex, highlighted the Tahmina collection of richly patterned fabrics and wallpapers, available with a range of coordinated weaves and silks. The exotic colors and ornate hand-finished details of North African and Indian fabrics strongly influenced the collection. Patterns included a Kashmir Paisley, an Asia Ikat stripe, a Turkish kilim-inspired print and a lavish Venetian damask, in luxury fabrics such as silk, velvet, chenille, herringbone and ottoman. Commercial Director Michael Parry said business was good and bad. ''On the export front, Europe is quite patchy – Italy is still reasonable, as is Germany to some extent. We continue to do well in Australia and New Zealand. Surprisingly, our licensed business in Japan has not really dipped,'' Mr. Parry said. The first six months of 1999 were ''very tough,'' according to Ashley Brodin, Chief Executive of the Ashley Wilde Group of Welham Green, Hertfordshire. ''However, the market began to turn in July, and business up to September has been extremely encouraging.'' Brodin revealed that Ashley Wilde was opening at the beginning of October a 100-percent-owned French subsidiary in Lyon. He called it ''a strategic move aimed at the central European market to give better customer service and to develop specific products for the region.'' With a ''traditional ethnic'' look, inspired by the flavors of India and Southeast Asia, Brown & Rowan of Witney, Oxfordshire, introduced four collections for Decosit '99. These were: Chess, a semi-plain barkweave dobby, printed to simulate a chenille/slub weave; Himalan, a luxurious wool/cotton chenille; Ludovisi, a soft and plush, richly colored chenille jacquard; and the Millennium Collection, three historical designs adapted for the 21st century, two coordinating cushion panels and a semi-plain viscose chenille. Design Director Vikki Newton reported many American customers at the show and even U.K. clients wanting to view and buy. Brown & Rowan continued to do well in Australia and South Africa, and had good business in Italy and Spain. New heavier weights gained customers in the Middle East and Turkey. ''The February-June period was slow,'' Newton admitted. ''Quantities were smaller and margins tighter. But since July there has been more optimism in the market. Our Millennium Collection is selling like hot-cakes. Everything is changeable, but we are optimistic for next year.'' Also enthusiastic about the build-up to the millennium was Edinburgh Weavers of Bolton, Lancashire, which launched washable dobby and jacquard plain-dyed fabrics alongside yarn-dyed jacquards that use interesting weave techniques and chenille yarns. Designs range from modern abstracts to more traditional themes influenced by men's suitings, kilims and ethnics. Printed fabrics include traditional romantic florals on jacquards as well as contemporary designs, incorporating unusual base cloths and printing techniques. ''The jacquard collection in polyester/cotton for upholstery and drapes has been particularly well received, and is set to be the biggest-selling new range,'' said Export Sales Manager Deborah Woods. Decosit '99 also saw the launch from Wilson Wilcox Furnishings of Alhambra, a coordinated collection of 50/50 acrylic/cotton washable chenille jacquards, three 100 percent cotton prints and a 65/35 polyester/cotton voile. The company, founded 10 years ago and now part of Denise Fabrics, recently moved from Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, to Blackburn, Lancashire. The new collection was inspired by the rich and intricate decorations found in the palaces of the Alhambra in Granada, according to Marketing Manager Sue Moore. She said that red shades in particular were beginning to come through strongly in the U.K. furnishings market. Anne & Robert Swaffer of Peterborough previewed the Woodbridge collection of wool jacquards for both contract and domestic upholstery and drapes. At Decosit, the collection featured a striking paprika colorway. Another addition was the Grantchester collection of linen weft duo-tone jacquards. Robert Swaffer said the past 18 months have been difficult. Volumes had generally fallen off, and the company was selling more cut lengths and fewer pieces. ''For export business, good distribution is the key, together with the right products,'' he said.